Chief’s Poncho

Chief's poncho, ca. 1900. Collection of David and Marita Paly. Wool warp ikat. 57 × 60 in. (144.8 × 152.4 cm)

Listen to a verbal description of the object intended for someone with low to no vision, or anyone looking for a closer look at the object.

Transcript:

Poncho, woven in Chile by the Mapuche people in the late 19th century, made of sheep's wool, dyed with indigo. It is 4 feet 10 inches tall by 4 feet 11 inches wide. This poncho was made by the Mapuche, which are the largest group of indigenous people in Chile. It would be worn by a chieftain, a mature man of elevated position in their community. Lying flat, the poncho is a square shape. There is a vertical slit in the middle of the square, meant for a person’s head to fit through. When worn, the front and back sides of the poncho would hit just below the waist of an average sized man. The poncho appears to be black and white, but upon closer inspection, the colors are the deepest shade of indigo and a warm beige. The indigo hue was achieved from months of dying and oxidation, creating a color so rich and intense it seems almost darker than black. The pattern on the poncho is made of geometric designs of stepped crosses and lines in indigo, with the surrounding space a warm cream color. Nine equidistant vertical lines cover the poncho. Sitting on the lines are staggered stepped crosses. The stepped crosses look like pixelated diamonds, with three “steps” on each edge. An indigo fringe sits on two edges of the poncho, what would be the front and back when worn by a person. Symmetry is a very important part of the textile. If you folded the poncho onto itself in any direction it would create a perfect inversion every time. The poncho is made of woven Spanish Merino wool- thick and rough, but still pliable. When worn by a chieftain, the fabric wouldn’t simply fall flush to its wearer, but pucker and lift as the sturdy wool tries to maintain its shape.
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